Editor of the Observer Magazine Polly Vernon looks back at her heady days and intoxicating nights as a Wonderbra flaunting barmaid in 90s Covent Garden
I spent my first year in London working in a cocktail bar on the corner of Wellington Street, bang in the middle of Covent Garden. It was neon-lit and screamingly trashy, a formerly-fashionable barn of a joint called Rumours, and I loved it. I arrived equipped with nothing more than a mediocre degree in French, a Wonderbra and a regulation catsuit, and managed to land a few shifts on the basis that someone I knew had once slept with the manager. Within a fortnight or two, I was totally ensconced on the regulars’ rota.
I fell in love with the whole scene within milliseconds. There was no way you could have dragged me away from the place. I sloshed out endless pre-mixed long island ice teas for the delectation of the Eastenders stars, Premiership footballers and City boys who became my clientele. I spent my free time doing shots after hours with Croatian bus boys and my catsuit-clad colleagues, to whom I was completely devoted. We’d troop off to Stringfellows (where I had been granted something called Model Membership) or The Roadhouse in the Piazza or The Limelight on Charing Cross Road or The Spot on Maiden Lane – our sister bar with a late license. I never got out of bed before midday, and never returned to it before 3am. I toyed with the affections of doormen and the Miss Saigon musicians who would pop in for a G&T before the evening performance. I took minicabs home to Hammersmith every night from the Ali Cabs outfit situated opposite Leicester Square tube. And generally, I thought I had ARRIVED. You could keep Studio 54 in the 70s and The Blitz Club in the early 80s—as far as I was concerned, it did not get more decadent, more intensely glamorous, more heady and intoxicating, than Rumours of Covent Garden in 1994.
I was wrong, of course. Covent Garden 16 years ago was a fading shadow of former glories, and a million miles from the slick, shiny, brilliantly refurbished operation it is now. It was smelly and not especially hip. It was filled with dismal tourists, bad street artists and overpriced coffee shops. But I was oblivious. Having grown up in Devon and studied in Brighton, Covent Garden was my introduction to London and to a life outside full time education. It seemed to me to be the very epicentre of glamour, and I embraced it as hard as my cantilevered, Lycra-encased bosom would allow.
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